Felling a tree with a chainsaw is a task that demands precision, preparation, and respect for the tool. Before any cut is made, the operator must assess the environment, the tree’s structure, and their own readiness to execute the job safely. This process is not about speed; it is about controlled direction and risk management. A successful fell ensures the tree lands exactly where planned, protecting property and preventing personal injury.
Preparation and Safety Assessment
Effective tree felling begins long before the chainsaw touches the bark. You must walk the site and identify escape routes, noting obstacles such as other trees, buildings, power lines, and uneven terrain. The goal is to determine the tree’s natural lean, any wind conditions, and the weight of the trunk. Only when the area is clear and the path of fall is predictable should you proceed. Safety gear, including chainsaw chaps, eye protection, hearing protection, and a hard hat, is non-negotiable for every moment of the operation.
Evaluating the Tree and Surroundings
Examine the trunk for signs of decay, cracks, or hanging branches that could behave unpredictably. Young trees are generally safer to fell, while larger or older trees may require professional help. You should also measure the height relative to the space available and check for “widowmakers,” or dead branches that could fall separately. If the tree leans heavily in one direction or has multiple trunks, the standard felling technique may not be sufficient. Understanding these variables prevents dangerous situations mid-cut.
Creating the Felling Notch
The felling notch is the key to directing the fall, and it must be precise. Begin by making a horizontal cut into the tree on the side facing the direction you want it to fall. This cut should be clean and consistent, typically about one-third of the way through the trunk’s diameter. Immediately above this horizontal cut, angle the chainsaw upward to meet it, forming a notch that resembles a shallow wedge. The back cut, made later on the opposite side, will release the tree at a hinge that controls its movement.
Depth and Angle Consistency
Maintain the same height for the bottom of the notch throughout the entire cut, using the chainsaw’s depth gauge or a marked reference point on the bar. The angle of the top cut should generally be between 20 and 30 degrees, creating a strong hinge of wood that slows the fall. Avoid cutting too deep, which can pinch the bar or cause the tree to split unpredictably. A well-shaped notch reduces kickback risk and gives you clear control over the tree’s trajectory.
Executing the Back Cut
Once the notch is complete, move to the opposite side and prepare the back cut. This cut should be slightly higher than the apex of the notch, leaving a small hinge of wood that connects the notch to the rest of the tree. The hinge is the pivot point; if it is too thin, the tree may fall too quickly, while a hinge that is too thick can prevent movement entirely. As you cut, listen and watch for signs that the tree is shifting, such as cracking sounds or movement in the canopy.
When to Stop the Back Cut
Do not cut all the way through the trunk. Instead, stop cutting when the hinge is roughly 10 percent of the tree’s diameter, adjusting for larger trees if necessary. At this point, many operators use an “undercut” or “step cut” technique for additional control, creating a small step below the back cut to prevent the bar from touching the ground. When the tree begins to lean and shift, your immediate action is to disengage the chainsaw and move quickly along your predetermined escape route. Never turn your back on a falling tree.
