Felling a tree with a chainsaw is a task that demands precision, preparation, and respect for the tool. Before any cut is made, the operator must assess the environment, the tree’s structure, and their own readiness to execute the process safely. This guide outlines the methodical approach required to perform a controlled fall, emphasizing that rushing or skipping steps is the primary cause of accidents.
Preparation and Safety Assessment
The foundation of safe felling exists long before the chainsaw touches the bark. You must evaluate the wind direction, noting that even light gusts can push a falling tree off its intended path. Next, survey the area for hazards such as power lines, structures, roads, or other people, establishing a clear escape route that does not cross the falling path. Finally, inspect your personal protective equipment (PPE), which must include cut-resistant chaps, safety boots, eye protection, and hearing protection.
Understanding the Hinge
Understanding the hinge is the single most critical concept in felling. The hinge is the uncut wood between the face cut and the back cut; it controls the direction the tree falls and prevents the saw from becoming pinched. The hinge must remain alive during the entire process, meaning it should be thin and flexible rather than completely severed. Maintaining control of the hinge ensures a clean, predictable fall and protects the chainsaw from dangerous kickback or binding.
Creating the Face Cut
The face cut determines the direction of fall and should be made first. Stand with your dominant shoulder against the intended direction of fall and align the chainsaw bar perpendicular to that line. Make a horizontal cut into the tree, stopping at a height that is approximately one-third of the tree’s diameter. This cut establishes the pivot point for the hinge and creates a flat surface to guide the tree as it begins to move.
Shaping the Hinge
Immediately after the face cut is complete, you must relieve the tension on the bar by pulling the saw slightly backward and out of the opening. This prevents the bar from becoming wedged as the tree settles. Then, make a slightly upward angled cut into the face, stopping before you reach the horizontal kerf. This step creates a clean hinge of consistent thickness, which is vital for controlling the speed and angle of the fall.
Executing the Back Cut
The back cut is the release, and timing is everything. Do not cut all the way through the tree; instead, stop cutting when the bar is flush with the apex of the face cut. The remaining hinge should now be thin enough to flex but thick enough to control the descent. As the tree begins to lean, switch off the saw and move quickly along your pre-planned escape route, never turning your back to watch the fall.
Dealing with Spring Wood and Lean
Not every tree falls predictably, and you must adjust your technique based on the species and natural lean. Trees with heavy "spring wood" or tension in the upper branches may twist violently when the hinge breaks, a phenomenon known as barber chairing. In cases of significant natural lean, the back cut may need to be slightly longer on the downhill side to counteract the momentum and ensure the hinge fails in a controlled manner.
Finally, the process is not complete until the tree is secured and bucked. Once the tree is on the ground, you must ensure the chain is completely de-energized before wedging the trunk to relieve tension on the hinge. Only then should you begin to trim the branches and cut the trunk into manageable lengths, maintaining awareness of the center of gravity throughout the process to prevent the rolling or shifting of the wood.
