Notching a tree correctly is the most critical step in any directional felling operation. This controlled cut dictates the direction the tree will fall and prevents the saw from pinching, which is a leading cause of dangerous kickback. A precise hinge of wood acts as a hinge, guiding the tree to fall safely where you intend it to go. Without this guiding notch, the fall is unpredictable, turning a planned operation into an accident waiting to happen.
Understanding the Three Essential Cuts
The process relies on a sequence of two distinct cuts working together. First, you make the directional notch on the side facing the intended fall direction. This cut removes a wedge of wood and creates the hinge. Second, you complete the back cut on the opposite side, which severs the hinge and allows the tree to fall. The success of the entire operation depends on the accuracy of the notch and the careful execution of the back cut.
The Face Notch: Precision and Angle
The face notch is the most common and generally the safest method for recreational users. To create it, you make two cuts that meet at a specific point on the hinge. The top cut of the notch should be horizontal, while the bottom cut is angled upward to meet the top cut. The ideal angle for the bottom cut is generally between 10 and 20 degrees upward. This upward angle creates a stronger hinge that resists breaking under the weight of the tree.
Avoiding the Risks of a Humboldt Notch
The Humboldt notch is a quicker but riskier technique involving a single, horizontal cut that is then hammered or pushed to break the wood. While this method is popular in some professional contexts for speed, it places immense stress on the hinge. The sudden release of tension can cause the hinge to shatter unexpectedly, sending chunks of wood flying and creating an unpredictable fall path. For most individuals, the controlled geometry of the face notch is the safer and more reliable choice.
Calculating the Felling Zone
Before the first cut is made, you must determine the tree's height and the potential fall zone. A general rule is that the tree will fall a distance equal to its height, so the danger zone extends that far in all directions. Clear the area of people, pets, and obstacles well outside this zone. Always have two escape routes planned at a 45-degree angle away from the intended fall path, ensuring you can move quickly and safely once the tree begins to fall.
Executing the Back Cut
Once the face notch is complete, you move to the back cut, which is the cut that actually drops the tree. This cut is made on the opposite side of the trunk from the notch. The key is to stop cutting before you sever the wood entirely. You must leave a small amount of wood, often referred to as the "holding wood" or "stub," that connects the hinge to the rest of the tree. Cutting through this section compromises the hinge and can cause the tree to fall straight back or sideways.
Managing the Final Moments
As you complete the back cut, the tree will begin to shift. This is the moment to watch the hinge closely; it should remain intact and support the weight evenly. If you hear cracking sounds or see the hinge failing, stop cutting immediately and move to your escape route. When the tree begins to fall, never turn your back on it. Use the chain saw to cut the remaining holding wood only if the tree gets caught on something, a scenario that requires extreme caution and experience.
Post-Felling Safety and Cleanup
After the tree has come to rest, the danger is not over. You must now deal with the exposed stump and the tension within the tree itself. A trunk that is under pressure can release energy suddenly when the stump is cut, causing the saw to jump. Make a final cut on the stump well below the notch hinge to relieve this tension. Always be aware of the wind, as even a large tree can be blown over in strong gusts, changing its intended fall path unexpectedly.
