Creating a lapel collar requires patience and attention to detail, but the refined finish it brings to a garment is unmatched. This technique is essential for both unlined and fully lined garments, providing structure and a polished edge where the collar meets the lapel. Understanding the interplay between the collar underlayer and the facing will ensure the final piece lies smoothly against the neck.
The Foundation of a Strong Collar
The success of a lapel collar begins long before the topstitching is visible. It starts with the underlayer, which provides the necessary weight and stability. This foundation piece is cut to the exact shape of the collar but is typically finished with a zigzag or pinking shear to prevent fraying. Without this supportive base, the collar would lack the body required to hold its shape against the lapel roll.
Securing the Understructure
Once the underlayer is prepared, it must be securely attached to the main collar piece. The two layers are placed right sides together, and the outer seam and notched curves are stitched. It is critical to grade the seam allowances, trimming the underlayer slightly shorter than the top. This grading eliminates bulk at the points where the collar rolls over, ensuring a sharp, flat edge when the garment is turned right side out.
Turning and Pressing Techniques
Turning the collar right side out is the most delicate step in this process. A blunt tool, such as a knitting needle or a chopstick, is used to gently push out the corners without shredding the fabric. After turning, the collar is pressed meticulously, with the seam allowance rolled slightly inward and secured with a steam press. This initial pressing sets the memory of the shape and defines the lapel fold line for the remainder of the construction.
Attaching the Collar to the Garment
With the collar prepared, it is aligned with the neckline of the garment. The collar unit is sandwiched between the garment's facing and the lapel, all pinned together with precision. The stitching line must be consistent to allow the lapel to roll naturally toward the underside. If the facing is slightly shorter than the collar, the tension will help the collar stand firmly without stretching the neckband.
The Final Edge Stitch
Topstitching around the collar edge is not merely decorative; it is the mechanism that holds the structure in place. This stitch secures the lapel, facing, and collar underlayer into a single, cohesive unit. The seam allowance is typically encased within this stitch, creating a clean channel that guides the eye along the neckline. Maintaining an even tension during this step prevents puckering and ensures the lapel lies flat when worn.
Following these steps results in a lapel collar that exudes professionalism and craft. The absence of loose edges and the uniformity of the roll demonstrate a high level of sewing mastery. Whether for a tailored jacket or a formal coat, this method guarantees a finish that feels as good as it looks.
