The bletted medlar is a forgotten fruit undergoing a quiet renaissance among discerning cooks and foragers. Unlike the sharp, astringent bite of a freshly picked medlar, the bletted version offers a complex sweetness reminiscent of dried figs, cinnamon, and overripe pear. This transformation, known as bletting, is a natural process that breaks down the fruit’s tannins, turning a hard, inedible berry into a soft, custard-like delicacy.
What is Bletting?
Bletting is a specific type of ripening unique to certain fruits, including medlars, persimmons, and quinces. It is not merely ripening; it is a controlled decomposition. The process involves storing the fruit at cool temperatures until the flesh softens and the internal compounds change. For medlars, this means the astringent tannins that cause the mouth to pucker disappear, replaced by a rich, jammy flavor profile that is simultaneously sweet, spicy, and winy.
The Science Behind the Softening
Biologically, bletting triggers the conversion of malic acid and tannins into sugars and other palatable compounds. The fruit’s cell walls break down, resulting in the characteristic soft, sometimes mushy texture. This process can occur naturally on the tree if left long enough, but it is more common to harvest the fruit early and allow it to blet indoors. The goal is to achieve a state where the fruit yields gently to pressure, similar to a ripe avocado, without becoming rotten or foul-smelling.
Culinary Uses and Pairings
Once bletted, the medlar becomes incredibly versatile. It can be pureed into a smooth butter that serves as a base for sauces, particularly for game meats like duck or venison. The intense flavor cuts through the richness of fatty proteins, creating a harmonious balance. Alternatively, the pulp can be spooned directly over yogurt, oatmeal, or vanilla ice cream, providing a unique textural and flavor contrast.
Spiced medlar butter for roasted meats.
Medlar chutney for cheese boards.
Medlar jelly or jam for afternoon tea.
Baked goods such as fruitcakes and tarts.
Harvesting and Selection
To blet medlars at home, one must first source high-quality fruit. Look for firm specimens free of bruises or insect damage, typically harvested in late autumn. Store them in a cool, dark place, such as a paper bag in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator. Check daily for softness; the process can take several weeks. The fruit is ready to use when it feels like it is about to burst and emits a sweet, fermented aroma.
Traditional vs. Modern Techniques
Historically, medlars were buried in straw or leaves in a cool cellar to blet. Today, most people replicate this environment using plastic bags or containers lined with paper towels to absorb excess moisture. Some enthusiasts prefer the "shrivel" method, allowing the fruit to dry slightly, which concentrates the sugars further. Both methods yield delicious results, though the texture varies from loose and jammy to dense and fibrous.
The Flavor Profile
Describing the taste of a bletted medlar is an exercise in nuance. Initial notes are of sharp acidity, but this quickly melts into a deep, caramel-like sweetness. Hints of cinnamon, nutmeg, and brown sugar emerge on the palate, finishing with a wine-like acidity that lingers on the tongue. This complexity makes it a favorite ingredient for chefs looking to add depth to savory dishes or to bakers seeking a sophisticated alternative to mainstream fruits.
